Legacy in Leather
A systematic study on Chamba chappal and the people who make it.
Chamba, a quaint town in Himachal Pradesh, is home to several struggling traditional crafts. Among them is the G.I. tagged Chamba Chappal, a unique handmade footwear, whose artisans have significantly declined over the years.
Via ethnographic study, one-on-one interviews and observational study, our team of six analyzed the complex Chamba chappal system and the stakeholders involved to identify potential leverage points for enhancing the practice's sustainability from the perspective of the three pillars of sustainability namely, people, profit and planet. We aim to propose strategies to address the gap areas identified effectively.
Introduction
My Role
Deliverables
Leverage Points
Research
Deriving Insights
Solutions
What did I do?
Before going to Chamba, I worked on contextualising Chamba with secondary research, formulating the research plan, areas of enquiry and questions to be asked.
During the trip to Chamba,
I was responsible for documenting the journey, interviews, the craft and the place. And contributed in conducting the interviews.
Post research worked on analysis of data, gathering insights, building system maps, flow-charts, identifying leverage points, mapping solutions and building upon them.
For the final deliverables
I contributed to visual & publication design, content writing, illustrations, narrative and editing for the video.
What we Delivered?
Craft documentation
What are the leverage points discovered in the system?
Lack of awareness of Chamba chappal.
Private exhibitions are expensive and not accessible.
Lack of entrepreneurial skill.
Competition from other footwear craft in the market.
Education among artisan about future of craft is lacking.
Dust from shavings in the small workshop.
Tourism in Chamba
Workshop lacking in ergonomic factors
RESEARCH
How did we identify them?
Conducted a week-long field study in Chamba, Himachal Pradesh, focusing on the craft of Chamba Chappals. The research involved ethnographic methods, one-on-one interviews, and observational studies to gain insights into the artisans, their craft, and the broader ecosystem surrounding it.
Key research objectives
The understand the overall system of the Chamba chappal including but not limited to the sourcing, the process, the people involved, the market, the city of Chamba itself & all the linkages that exist.
Document and present the research findings in a clear and accessible format for future use.
To find actionable insights in the craft system of Chamba chappal in terms of people, processes and the planet keeping in mind regional sensibilities and diversities, resources and environment.
Key research areas
Geography and topography
Future of the craft
Folk culture
Family/community
Social norms
Market
About the craftsperson
New generations
Demographics
How does learning the craft work
Process of the craft
Evolution of the craft
Economic activities
Raw materials
Innovation in the craft
Role of Government & NGO
Role of Financial Institutions
Role of each family member
Sustainable and non-sustainable elements
Key questions asked
How did you learn the craft of Chamba chappal making?
Specific techniques or skills, unique to Chamba chappals?
Changes in the way chappals are made compared to the past?
Where do you source the leather from?
What factors influence your choice of leather suppliers? (e.g., availability, quality, cost)
How does the production of Chamba chappals contribute to your livelihood?
Are there middlemen involved in the sale of your Chamba chappals?
How has the GI tag for Chamba chappals impacted your work?
What are the biggest challenges you face in terms of marketing and selling your Chamba chappals?
What does the craft of Chamba chappal making mean to you and your community?
How do Chamba chappals connect to the cultural heritage of Himachal Pradesh?
What are your hopes for the future of Chamba chappals?
Research Process
We conducted semi-structured one-on-one interviews with our artisans in their workspaces, and documented it via written notes, video, audio and photography. For ethnographic study we visited the stores, the workshops and the house of the artisans to understand their social setting, the way they work and to observe them in their places of work and living.
